This is a step by step tutorial on how to make Juliette Button Midi Dress.
UK 6-16 / EU 34-44 / US 2-12/ AU 6-16
First, we are going to start by preparing belt loops. Take a piece of belt loop fabric and fold it in half lengthwise. Stitch and trim the excess fabric. Bag it out using a loop turner and topstitch on both sides as close to the edge as possible.
Moving on to the belt we are going to follow the same steps as with belt loops which are stitch, trim, bag out and topstitch. Then we need to finish raw ends by folding the end twice and make a secure stitch.
Then we need to prepare the straps which we’ll use to tie one side of the dress on the inside. Fold the belt in half and start stitching from the shorter edge of the belt. Once you get approx. 1 cm to the edge, lift the foot up with the needle still in the fabric, turn the strap by 90 degrees and continue stitching lengthwise.
Then trim the excess fabric and bag it out using a loop turner. Doing that just be careful not to make any holes in the fabric and hook the loop turner to the seam line of the strap.
Next we need to cut out interfacing panels. You can use pattern pieces to do that or fabric pieces. I prefer to use fabric panels as it’s just faster that way. We’ll need to interface cuffs, front facing panels, skirt facing panels and back neck facing. Then use an iron and press it until small dots of interfacing glue will stick to the fabric.
Once everything is ready we can start sewing the dress. As a first step we have stitch a princess line. Pin two front panels together, stitch and overlock the edge. Remember not to stretch or pull the fabric. The best thing is to pin those panels on the table and start by pinning two ends together and then work your way to the centre of the princess line from both sides.
Next create two darts on the back bodice.
Join front and back panels together. Remember to insert a belt loops 2cm from the waist as shown in the photos before sewing. Then sew and overlock those edges.
Moving to the skirt, make two back darts approx. 14cm long. Then pin, sew back the skirt panel with two front skirt panels and finish off by overlocking those edges.
Join top and skirt together.
Sew together facing pieces ( skirt left + top left + back + top right + skirt right), overlock just made seams as well as the outer edge of the whole facing piece.
Then pin facing to the skirt and before we’ll start sewing we need to insert one belt to the left top. Approximately 1cm down from the top edge. You’ll need that belt to tie it on the inside.
Once you get approx. 1cm to the hem of the facing lift the foot up with the needle still in the fabric and stitch the rest of the facing with a skirt for a nicer finish. Overlocking this seam is optional but I prefer to do it for the nice finish. Then bag out the hem’s corner, double fold the hem and topstitch.
Now we can add the second belt to the right side. The inside belt must be on the same level as the order belt. If you attach it too low the hem of the dress won’t be even and this side will drop down. Depending on the size you’re making ( this is dress size UK 8 ) my belt must be 6cm above the waistline. Attach your strap to the seam allowance.
Moving on to the sleeves we’ll start by binding the cuff opening. Follow the steps as demonstrated in the photos by attaching the bias stripe ( you’ll also find it in the pattern file ) stitching and pressing the seam. Then fold the stripe twice to create a binding, pin in down and topstitch.
Pin sleeve sides together and overlock the edge. Then we need to create a gathers. Change your sewing machine settings by making your stitch line as long as possible. Make a straight stitch line on the cuff and pull one of the threads to create a gathers.
The gathers should be 2cm shorter than the cuff length. Pin sleeve with cuff and leave 1 cm on each side. Then sew them together. Next, fold the cuff in half and make a side stitch starting where just made the stitch line ended.
After sewing, trim the excess fabric and bag out the cuff. Use scissors to make the corners nice and pointy. Then fold the cuff edge by 1cm to cover the stitch line.
Topstitch the cuff carefully. Then create a button hole in the middle of the cuff and also approx. 1cm away from the edge. Then attach the button to the other side.
Insert sleeve to the armhole and overlock the raw edge.
Then create a buttonhole on one side and attach buttons on the other side. You can place them really how wide you want. I decided to place my starting 1cm from the top edge and then measured 1cm away from each buttonhole.